AUTUMN FOOD

I love a good curry. Give me a masala dosa or a vegetarian thali, or an aloo gobi with a Goan fish curry, and we’ll be friends for life. My travels in India are among my fondest culinary memories. Eating food with fingers from palm leaves in vast halls, samosas with chai on railway platforms, long spicy fish lunches at beach huts in Kerala. Ah, but I digress. These are samples of the pungent taste that is the resonance of the Metal Element, tastes that are concentrated, distilled and bursting with an aromatic flavour. Herbs such as rosemary, thyme, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamon, garlic and ginger are also in the realm of the pungent.

The season of Autumn is the best time to be adding warming, spicy, aromatic foods to our diet, for this pungent flavour supports the Metal Element and its organs of Lung and Large Intestine.

In the early autumn as the temperature and humidity drop, one should transition from the cooling foods of summer and the damp-clearing foods of late summer to neutral and yin-nourishing foods. As the autumn deepens and the weather gets colder, add warming spices and cruciferous vegetables to support the Metal Element. As the season dries, and especially in dry climates, add lung-moistening foods such as pears, pawpaw and honey.

Vegetables that support the Metal Element include radish, cauliflower, shitake mushrooms, sweet potato, parsnip, spinach, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin, leek, broccoli, fennel, onion, spring onions and chives.

Among the fruits, choose apple, tangerine, pear, golden kiwi, guava, persimmon, peach and fig.

Other foods that are supportive of the Metal Element are black sesame seeds, sesame oil, oats, red rice and black beans. For protein: tahini, silken tofu, duck, river fish and crab.

Pungent foods are said to move or disperse Qi, loosen stagnation and strengthen the Lung. This is especially useful when there is an invasion of pathogenic factors such as Wind or Cold. The pungent foods help to expel the invasion via the skin, often by sweating, and releasing to the exterior. The flavour can be used to protect against colds and flu, boosting immunity by stimulating defensive Qi. If, however, the Lung Qi is weak, then pungent food should be consumed in moderation as too much will scatter the Qi.

The Nei Jing tells us that “the pungent taste can ventilate the lungs and open the pores” but that “excessive consumption of the pungent taste may injure the pores and skin.” (Su Wen 5). Not only does too much pungent food injure the organs and tissues of its Metal Element, but it also has a flow-on effect on the Wood Element. “Overindulgence in pungent food can cause spasms, tremors, and poor nails.” (Su Wen 10) This is an example of an excess of the flavour of one Element acting on the grandson Element. In this case, Metal is invading the Wood.

Zoey Xinyi Gong in her Five Elements Cookbook warns that too much hot sauce, chilli etc can bring heat to the lungs (Metal) and liver (Wood), causing skin issues, hair loss, anger, restlessness and insomnia. It can also cause dryness in the Large Intestine leading to constipation. If you are prone to reaching for the 5-star hot sauce, you may therefore want to temper your usage. (Note to self!)

This blog post completes our year-long exploration of the foods of the Five Elements. Normally at this time I am already thinking of a new theme for the coming year. But for the first time, nothing has arisen and I wonder why. My first blog was posted in February 2014, just as the Wood Horse Year came galloping in. Here we are 12 years later in the Year of the Fire Horse, a year that promises change at all levels, so I am reassessing my blogging. Perhaps I’ll take a break, or perhaps I will post when the inspiration arises, rather than setting myself a timetable of blogging on a theme in each season. If, dear reader, you have read this far, I am humbled by your interest. If there is something you’d like to suggest for a topic, or even just to say hello, feel free to email me. My contact details are on the website.

With warm wishes

John

EARTH FOOD

Back so soon? Yes, the Earth phase follows close upon the Fire phase and is followed closely in turn by the Metal phase. Think of a round cake that is cut into four large pieces, representing the Water, Wood, Fire and Metal phases. Now take a slice off the end of each piece: these slivers represent the Earth phase which is interspersed at the points of transition. (See a previous post detailing this.) The phase that we are now transitioning in the southern hemisphere is the most evident expression of this Earth energy, the late summer. As the Nei Jing tells us:

During the season between summer and autumn, late summer, the fruits ripen and turn yellow. When they ripen they taste sweet and can nourish spleen qi. The spleen qi is then able to nourish the muscles and flesh. (Suwen 5)

Not only is the Earth Element one of transition, it is also one of centrality. The organs of Earth, Stomach and Spleen, are central to the metabolic functions of the body, namely the taking in and transforming of food into Qi.

The stomach and spleen are like warehouses where one stores all the food and essences. They digest, absorb, and extract the food and nutrients. (Su wen 8)

For this series of blogs about food, the Earth is key, for it pertains to our appetite, taste, enjoyment, appreciation, digestion and utilisation of food.

The taste of Earth is sweet

While the taste of the Earth Element is sweet, this is not the sweetness of sugar, cakes, biscuits and ice cream, all of which are damaging to the Spleen if overindulged. Rather the sweet taste is a natural one that arises from the presence of complex carbohydrates. Zoey Gong in her Five Elements Cookbook says that “Sweet flavour is nourishing, slightly Warming, harmonising, and moistening. Half of your daily diet should come from Sweet foods to help strengthen your Spleen which prevents weak digestion.”

This view is antithetical to many modern dietary models which emphasise high protein and low carbohydrate intake. However, the Chinese medicine view arises from thousands of years of dietary development and is in the context of a diet that is a balance of flavours, colours, hot and cold properties, cooking methods and seasonal influences.

Let’s look at these sweet foods. A quick glance shows that most foods are sweet in flavour, or a combination of sweet and one other flavour. As you might expect, almost all fruits are sweet. Among the leafy vegetables, asparagus, bok choy, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale, lettuce and spinach are entirely sweet. So too are corn, green beans, mung beans, and almost all the root vegetables, especially beetroot, carrot, potato, pumpkin and sweet potato.

Looking at protein sources, all legumes are sweet, things like lentils, beans, chickpeas and peas. So too almost all nuts and grains are sweet in flavour. Among the animal proteins, most are sweet except for duck and ham. Many kinds of fish are sweet, though these are mostly a combination of sweet and salty.

So, when we are advised that half of our diet should come from sweet foods, there is no shortage of choice, but with the proviso that we include fruit, vegetables and grains.

That said, there is such a thing as too much sweet. This is particularly true of sugar-based sweetness which is ubiquitous in processed foods. Overindulgence in sweet food damages the Spleen. Specifically, it creates damp in the body where the Spleen is unable to transform and transport fluids. This can lead to retention of fluid, oedema, sluggish digestion, bloating, loose stools, fatigue, mental fogginess and an overall feeling of heaviness.

Too much sweet taste can disturb the heart qi, causing it to become restless and congested, as well as cause imbalance of kidney energy, which turns the face black. (Suwen 3)

Thinking back to my metaphor of dividing the cake, perhaps I should have chosen a round fruit, say a melon. While yummy cake may be good for the soul, too much yummy cake is definitely not good for our Earth Element.

The colour of Earth is yellow

The Earth Element and its organs of Stomach and Spleen can be further enhanced by paying attention to the colour of food. Include some yellow or orange food with each meal, even if the taste is not sweet. Yellow foods include banana, lemon, pineapple, orange, mandarin, yellow peppers, rockmelon (cantaloupe), mango, nectarine, peach, papaya and passionfruit. Among the vegetables: carrot, sweet potato, pumpkin, yellow pepper and sweet corn. Other yellow foods include turmeric, saffron, mustard, millet and sesame seeds.

Cooking methods

Earth thrives on warm, simply cooked foods which are easily digested and support the process of transformation. Gently steamed porridges of rice or millet are beneficial. Steamed or slow-cooked foods are more easily digested. Stir frying or gentle roasting methods are good as well as light soups and stews. Avoid deep fried foods which challenge the Spleen. Raw foods and cold foods should also be eschewed in this season as they weaken the Spleen and impair digestion.

Don’t Worry, Eat Happy

It is certainly important to eat a healthy diet and pay attention to our food intake, but what should be avoided is an obsession about what we are eating. Worry, obsessiveness and over-thinking is damaging to the Spleen. So while you may be technically eating right, if your every thought is on what is going into your mouth, it may be time to reassess. My auntie Eileen ate sweet food to excess all of her life. When she was 40 her doctor told her if she didn’t change her diet she’d be dead in five years. Well, she didn’t really care, she didn’t worry, she let life slide over her and she lived to be 84, long outliving her doctor. Now, I’m not advising anyone to emulate my aunt’s diet, just making the point not to be too obsessive.

The qualities of the Earth Element include connection, sharing, giving and receiving. There is no better way to enjoy food than in the company of good friends in a relaxed atmosphere that is kind and supportive. Many people find that cooking is a vehicle for this sharing. Indeed, the kitchen is the Earthiest room in the house. Consider that not only is the food itself important, but also the ambience in which it is consumed. Not just what we eat, but how we eat.

Enough rumination for now. See you in the Autumn for the final blog in this series about foods of the Metal Element